Goin South

Since we last wrote you, we have moved from Hue to Hoi An, and from Hoi An to our current locale, Nha Trang. This is our first official beach town, so what did we do? Thats right, risked our lives by letting me (Dave) learn how to drive a Moto on the fly in Vietnamese traffic. To quote the Dude, "Ofcourse we made it home, you're talkin to me at home." But that doesnt mean we didnt stare death between his beedy eyes - at one unmarked intersection an oncoming scooter decided to drive right at us. Luckily I am afast learner, and we were able to enjoy a much deserved relaxing day on the sand. Getting here was interesting, and really took the better part of a day and a half. We boarded our second "VIP" sleeper bus with the horror of the Hanoi-Hue overnite trip fresh in our mind, but the only slip up was the torrential downpour we ran through to board the plush sleeper. Our seats reclined and went up to acomfortable sitting position, and there was considerably less frantic honking. I was lucky enough to sleep most of the night, although Jess hadsome trouble with it. Either way, we have positive feelings going into our second straight night sleeping on a bus. Siagon awaits tomorrow, but we are getting ahead of ourselves. Back to Hoi An...

A quaint, relaxed riverside town near the beach, we really enjoyed Hoi An. Their main point of interest, aside from a backwater charm, is the plethora of tailors in the town ready to make you customclothes. On that note,JessandI will be fitted on our return: I came away with two suits,two dress shirts and two short sleeved "vacation" shirts, and Jess got 2 dresses, a shirt, a pair of shorts, and chic trench coat. We also got roped into a pair of shoes each,which (due to their weight) drove up the shipping costs. (Dad - check for the FEDEX, should be on its way, don't open, gifts also inside!!) We had good food and even took advantage of brief lulls from the SERIOUS rain to bike out to the beach, which was great and near empty. Food was better on the street than in restaurants, but really fresh and tasty on the whole, especially the seafood, which Jess gulped down without a second thought. One meal stands out above the rest, at a small spot on an alley that was half street stall half restaurant. If you find yourself in Hoi An, do check out the Ban Le Well. A friendly grandma broughtusgreat food before we had the chance to order, abd proceeded to show us just how to roll up our various treats in thin rice paper, even dipping them in peanut-chili sauce before trusting us to eat. She let us try after she made us each two and, satisfied with our skills, watched smiling from the next table. To say this food was good would not even begin to describe it, I wanted to hug thiscute old lady and take her with us the rest of our trip. The whole thing cameout to less than 100,000 dong (like 6 bucks), and she broughtus frsh pineapple for dessert. Thismeal has reinforceda notion we have come to accept - Vietnamesepeopleeat onthestreet more thaninrestaurants,and that is where the best food is usually found. On that note, Jess and I have pledged to attempt to eat every one of our meals in Saigon at roadside. Now we must get ready to go, but of course you,our faithful readers, deserve a treat: in honor of Mike Nolan's firing, here are some new photos!